Food52 Review: These golden nuggets of goodness are Andrew’s latest riff on one of Franny’s most popular menu items. In the past, he’s made zeppole (the base recipe was inspired by a trip to Naples) with spring herbs, artichokes, fennel; with this recipe, he’s come up with a quintessential summer combo of corn, chiles and pancetta. Each zeppole — essentially the Italian version of a doughnut hole — is impossibly tender within but crunches satisfyingly between your teeth with every bite. The chiles lend just the right amount of heat, and the sweetness of the roasted corn and the saltiness of the pancetta play off of each other perfectly. What’s more: you can make these ahead and reheat them — perfect for cocktail parties! – M —The Editors
Serves: a lot of zeppole (feel free to halve the recipe)
Ingredients
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34
grams fresh yeast
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300
grams all purpose flour
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155
grams fine yellow cornmeal
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6
grams salt, plus more for the corn
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1
cup raw corn kernels (from about 2 large ears of corn)
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Olive oil
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Freshly ground black pepper
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2/3
cup diced pancetta
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2/3
cup cup finely diced mixed hot chilies (preferably a mix of wax peppers and jalapenos)
-
2
liters corn or vegetable oil, for frying
-
lemon wedges
Directions
- To make the zeppole batter, whisk the yeast with 500 grams lukewarm water in a large bowl. Then whisk in the flour, the cornmeal and 6 grams salt, until the batter is smooth. Cover and keep in a warm place for at least an hour. (You can refrigerate the batter for up to 24 hours, but let it come to room temperature before proceeding.)
- While the batter is resting, heat the oven to 400 degrees F. Toss the the corn kernels in a bowl with a generous glug of olive oil and a few pinches of salt and pepper and spread evenly on a baking sheet in a single layer. Roast for about 20 minutes, stirring once or twice, until the corn is golden and caramelized. Set aside to cool.
- Put the pancetta in a medium skillet over medium-low heat and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently, just until it starts to color (you do not want it too crisp). Transfer to a bowl using a slotted spoon and discard the fat. Let the pancetta cool.
- Put the oil in a large pot with high sides (it should come more than halfway up) and heat to 375 degrees. Meanwhile, stir the cooled corn, pancetta and chopped chilies into the risen batter (it should be quite thick). When the oil is hot, carefully drop the batter in heaping tablespoonfuls into the oil, cooking about 6 at a time (do not crowd them). If you have a splatter screen, use it, and be very careful, as the oil may spit. After about 2 minutes, turn the zeppole so that they brown on both sides. When they are golden brown, remove them from the oil with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels, sprinkling immediately with salt and pepper. Keep the zeppolein a warm place as you cook the remaining batter. Make sure the zeppole have a chance to rest for at least 10 minutes before serving, as the centers need time to dry out. If you need to, you can reheat them in a 300 degree oven for a few minutes before serving, with lots of lemon wedges for squeezing.
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Because this is a chef's recipe, the batter ingredients are all measured out by weight for super-precision.
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Both cornmeal and white flour go into the batter — make sure to get finely ground cornmeal.
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We even weighed the water! Here's a tip, though: 1 gram of water equals 1 milliliter.
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Fresh yeast, which Andrew generously provided so Merrill could test this recipe on her own. It's worth seeking out fresh yeast if you can.
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The yeast gets mixed with lukewarm water (not too hot, not too cold — just like Goldilocks).
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Into the yeast and water go the dry ingredients.
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The batter thickens up and then needs to rest in a warm place for at least an hour.
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Meanwhile, it's time to remove raw corn kernels from the cob in preparation for roasting.
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A little olive oil and some salt and pepper are all that's needed.
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Make sure to spread out the corn as much as possible, so that it doesn't steam rather than roast.
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While the corn is in the oven, Merrill cuts the pancetta into "lardons." Basically, any kind of small chunk or strip will do.
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A quick sauté over low heat (you don't want too much color or crispness), and the pancetta is ready.
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Green wax peppers are beautiful and pale and have a lovely, mild heat.
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Corn, chiles and pancetta get folded into the batter — no need to be overly gentle, as you want everything evenly distributed.
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With the oil at 350 degrees, the batter goes in by rounded tablespoonfuls. If you have a splatter screen, use it. If you have an apron, wear it. And stand back, as every once in a while something…
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But it's SOOO worth it.
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A watched pot, and all that.
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One of Andrew's tricks is to let the cooked zeppole sit in a warm place for 10 minutes, which gives the still-moist centers time to cook through. If you need to, you can pop them into a warm…
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A quick sprinkle of salt and pepper, and a couple of lemon wedges, and they're all set to go!
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